By Dr. Gabriela Magnus
Peptides are substances increasingly present in serums, creams, and products aimed at preventing skin aging. In recent years, they have gained space in skincare and started raising questions about their effectiveness, benefits, and limitations. In this article, we explain what these products are and what peptides are used for.
What are peptides?
Peptides are small chains of amino acids, molecules involved in the formation of important skin proteins such as collagen and elastin. In skincare, they are used to help cellular communication and stimulate mechanisms related to skin repair and skin aging.
Do peptides really stimulate collagen?
Some peptides act as cellular signaling agents, stimulating processes related to collagen production. For this reason, they began to be used in products focused on firmness, fine lines, and skin aging prevention.
Results vary according to formulation, concentration, and combination with other active ingredients.
Do peptides really work?
This is one of the most common questions today. There are studies showing benefits of certain specific peptides for skin hydration, elasticity, and overall skin appearance. Results vary considerably among the different products and formulations available on the market.
Are peptides as effective as retinoids for the skin?
Retinol remains one of the most studied active ingredients in the treatment of skin aging. Compared to studies involving well-established dermatological ingredients such as retinoids and vitamin C, studies on peptides are smaller and more recent.
Because of this, peptides are currently seen more as complementary ingredients within a skincare routine rather than replacements for classic treatments such as retinoids.
Can peptides replace retinol? Under what conditions?
In patients with very sensitive skin, such as those with rosacea, peptides may replace retinol because they generally have a lower irritation potential compared to some retinoids.
Do all peptides have the same effectiveness?
There are different types of peptides with different functions. Some have a greater effect on skin hydration. Others help improve skin firmness or soften fine lines.
Do peptide combinations and different formulations work the same way?
No. The product formulation and its combination with other active ingredients influence the results. This is one of the reasons why more studies are still needed to clarify their functions.
Can peptides be used together with vitamin C?
Yes. This combination is quite common in skincare routines focused on preventing skin aging. While vitamin C has important antioxidant properties, some peptides may assist mechanisms related to firmness and skin repair.
Can peptides replace botulinum toxin?
No, this is a myth. Although some peptides are used in products aimed at softening fine lines and preventing skin aging, they do not produce the same results as botulinum toxin.
While botulinum toxin works by reducing the muscle contraction responsible for expression wrinkles, peptides usually act more subtly, mainly through hydration, skin repair, and stimulation of collagen-related mechanisms. Even so, they may be part of complementary strategies in combating facial wrinkles.
Can peptides replace hyaluronic acid fillers?
No. Hyaluronic acid fillers work by immediately restoring facial volume and contour, while peptides are usually used in topical products focused on hydration, firmness, and prevention of skin aging. Because they are topical ingredients, they require prolonged treatment.
Although they may help improve skin quality, they do not produce the same volumizing effect as injectable fillers and cannot replace them.
Do peptides help fight skin sagging?
Some studies suggest a slight improvement in skin firmness and elasticity with the continuous use of certain peptides. It is important to understand that topical treatments have limitations regarding their effects and the time required for use. In cases of significant skin sagging, dermatological procedures and technologies usually provide better results.
Do peptides help skin recovery after procedures?
Some peptides have been incorporated into products used for skin repair after dermatological procedures involving some degree of skin injury.
Today, they frequently appear in formulas associated with hydration, skin comfort, and recovery of skin quality after dermatological procedures such as lasers and other technologies.
Results depend on the formulation used and the type of procedure performed.
Are peptides suitable for sensitive skin?
In general, peptides are usually well tolerated and have low irritation potential on the skin. This allows many peptide-containing products to be used in patients with more sensitive skin or difficulty adapting to certain acids and retinoids.
Even so, any product may cause irritation depending on its concentration, formulation, and the individual characteristics of the skin.
Do copper peptides really work?
So-called copper peptides have recently gained popularity in products aimed at skin regeneration and prevention of skin aging. They are commonly associated with improved skin repair, hydration, and stimulation of collagen-related mechanisms.
The studies currently available are still limited when compared to more traditional dermatological active ingredients.
Are injectable peptides approved in Brazil?
In recent years, peptide injections have started appearing on social media and in content related to rejuvenation and longevity. Injectable protocols for aesthetics, performance, and other purposes still do not have approval from Anvisa due to the lack of efficacy and safety studies.
Peptides present in topical cosmetics, however, fall under a different regulatory category and may be used freely, but only for topical use.
Can products containing peptides be used every day?
In general, yes. Peptides are usually well tolerated active ingredients and are frequently used in daily skincare routines.
The ideal frequency depends on the product formulation, its association with other active ingredients, and the individual characteristics of each person’s skin.
How long do peptides take to work?
Results are usually gradual and vary according to formulation, frequency of use, and combination with other active ingredients in the skincare routine. Any skincare product, such as topical peptide treatments, generally requires at least several months before positive results become noticeable.
In most cases, topical products require continuous and regular use to achieve or maintain results.